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| Chevelle Tech Current Topic: HOLLEY carb help PLLEASE! | ||
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#1
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Hey guys,
so i rebuilt my 350 for my chevelle about a year ago. My dad had bought a holley 650 from ALL STATE CARBS used.. We used it and it worked fine for a while but then started RUNNING veerrryyy RICH! We would try to adjust it, the float levels good and all that. When we put the air bleeder screws all the way in it did nothing!.. =( Eventually washed my rings! So now im rebuilding it and took it apart and on the gasket inbetween the metering block and the main section it was SUPER damp and all bubbly and stuff. Wanted to know if that sounds like the problem? please help. I dont want to have to buy a new carb, my motor is already costing $$ to get machined. Thanks guys! |
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#2
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What kind of gaskets did it have? If it is having a sealing problem between the metering block and main body and everything was tight I would suspect warped metering block. This would pull in fuel no matter if all the other adjustments were right and flood your engine as you described. Used Holleys are bad news. What was the list # for your carb? If it has a metering plate in back, that can become warped very easily by someone assembling it like a gorilla, even though that's not the problem you described with the metering block being all wet, it could still cause a confusing rich problem. Even though it's more money, I would have a much better piece of mind buying a new (not reman) carb., or rebuilding a known good core myself. With a parts store reman carb. you just have no idea what you're getting or who assembled it.
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'68 El Camino SS396 468/400/2.73 'It's all about the Hamiltons, BAY-BEE' |
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#3
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Sounds like you blew the power valve. Also go to the blue reusable Holley gaskets they are the best.
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#4
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Look at the needle/seats first, make sure they are clean and not sticking open.
Gaskets can get wet just from taking the carb apart - tough to tell, but if it worked before I doubt the gaskets suddenly stopped sealing. It is possible, though, that the bowls loosened up some (tighen the carb up after a few heat cycles after tearing it apart). Don't tighten too much or you'll strip the threads. With the car running, can you see gas dribbling in off the boosters? If you have an old carb, might want to replace the power valve with the same rated one. Finally, if you turn the carb upside-down, can you see the transfer slots squared up like the picture below?
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Mark 1970 SS396 Lewis Racing Engines (aka Wolfplace) "mild" 489: 634 HP @ 6,000 rpm 627 Lb-ft @ 4,000 rpm ProSystems HP1000 Gear Vendors Overdrive Moser 12 Bolt Alumitech Radiator Dyno '70 Chevelle '70 Chevelle 2 |
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#5
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the model number is 4777-5 its 650 double pumper.
And im very new to messing around with carbs. So any help is appreciated. |
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#6
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I had a warped metering block on a 600 Holley once, so definitely check that out.
The power valve also sounds like a good suggestion.
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There are only 10 kinds of people, those that understand binary and those that don't. |
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#7
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Check the float valve if it's leaking and you may have too much fuel pressure.
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Louis Long Island Chevelles car club member http://www.longislandchevelles.com http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/sh...cat/500/page/1 http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/sh...cat/500/page/1 |
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#8
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Is your gas tank venting properly? That will cause excess pressure that will get past your needle and seats and flood the carb. too.
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'68 El Camino SS396 468/400/2.73 'It's all about the Hamiltons, BAY-BEE' |
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#9
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That sort of immediately occurring problem sounds like trash in he needle/seat.
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Zeke 67 Chevelle 64 Chevelle 69 AMX TC# 3094 ACES# 7297 |
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#10
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Ya Don't need that Double Pumper unless the engine is real stout. A 600 mech secondary or a vac secondary with a quick change vacuum pod works great. The 650 Dbl pumper is delivering way more than you need. IMHO.
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