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70 trim tag decode

9.4K views 27 replies 13 participants last post by  michael j  
#1 ·
A buudy is looking at a 70 can you decode this trim tag, also do the rest of the numbers and stuff look correct
 

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#2 · (Edited)
Well it was built in Arlington Texas on 2nd week of March, it was Cranberry Red with black bucket seats. The trans stamp is for a January 23rd date which lines up with build date. All numbers match and info matches on build sheet. Not a build sheet expert but everything looks good to me.
 
#3 ·
I'm not a 70 expert but I'm sure others who are will chime in. There are numerous things that jump out at me that indicate the build sheet in a forgery, the block appears to be a re-stamp, transmission appears to be incorrect (M21, should be M22).
 
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#6 · (Edited)
transmission appears to be incorrect (M21, should be M22).
Dave,
I believe you are right on that so that makes the build sheet a fake and calls into question everything else. It’s amazing some lengths people go to create a car.

Edit: Now that I take a closer look I see more mistakes on the build sheet. Definitely a fake.
How about a picture of the dash vin tag?
 
#5 ·

 
#9 ·
Generally folks on this website don’t reveal the mistakes that they find on build sheets as they are not in the habit of training the thieves that produce these false documents. However as long as it is already stated the build sheet lists the transmission as an M21. The only manual transmission available with a 454 engine was the M22. Therefore it is not possible for the build sheet to be real. There are other obvious mistakes which are easy to see. All the information as to the mistakes are easily available.
 
#10 ·
I do not have pic of the dash vin at this time, it is the same as what is stamped on the block. Thanks for all the replys keep them going.
 
#11 ·
Ditto with what some others have provided. No M21 with any LS5. Build sheet shows paint code 75 B (black vinyl top) yet trim tag shows no vinyl top
  • Box 10 - SCHED NO DATE block ua wrong format.
  • Box 11 - FRAME code not correct for Arlington
  • Box 16 - REAR SHOCK code wrong
  • Box 17 - STAB BAR code wrong
  • Box 19 - PROP SHAFT colors wrong for LS6/manual
  • Box 20 - EXHAUST code wrong
  • Box 21 - FAN CLUTCH code wrong
  • Box 22 - FAN PULLEY code wrong
  • Box 23 - VAC FITTINGS code wrong
  • bOX 24 - DP SEQ NO wrong format

That's just the first line. The codes are correct for various other plants but wong for Arlington. Now jump to box 107...

Box 107
B22 DR EMBLEM SS does not appear on LS5/LS6 build sheet
%A51 STRATO BKT ST not shown but trim code 756 is black bucket seats
J50 VAC PWR BRAKES listed in the wrong column
JL2 PWR DISC BRKS listed in the wrong column and wrong verbiage (BRKS not BRAKES)
*LS5 V8 454 CI 4B wrong verbiage (LS5 454 4BL HC ENG)
*M21 4 SPDF TRANS already discussed as not available with the LS5 and verbiage incorrect (%M21 4 SPD FS TRANS)
PL4 F70X14 LTW BLT wrong verbiage (PL4 F70X14 BW BLTD)
T60 HD BATTERY - wrong column
*U23 COURTISY LIGHT note"COURTISY" spelled wrong AND no such item as U23; U29 COURTESY LITE would be correct.

The VIN plate on the dash should read 136370R216914. What is stamped on the block NEVER includes the series or body style (i.e. 13637) but does add "1" for Chevrolet, "0" for 1970, "R" (in this case) for Arlington, then the last 6 digits of the VIN sequence..

The engine stamp is VERY questionable. The Tonawanda date stamp looks like the letter "O" was used instead of the number "0"..

See 1970 Chevelle Engine Pad Photos for examples of good engine date stamps.
 
#13 ·
270SS,
I think best thing is to post the complete vin number in this thread so if some poor unsuspecting person happens to do a vin search then it will lead them to this thread.
 
#19 ·
It MIGHT just be the way Chevy listed it, but the selling dealer was in Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio, not just Cuyahoga. I'm not an expert either, but I don't think there is any question the type font is wrong on the fake build sheet.. For one thing, the capital Js are capped. If you look at Dale's sheet, they are not.
 
#20 ·
It MIGHT just be the way Chevy listed it, but the selling dealer was in Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio, not just Cuyahoga. I'm not an expert either, but I don't think there is any question the type font is wrong on the fake build sheet. For one thing, the capital Js are capped. If you look at Dale's sheet, they are not.
You are correct in the way a plant will list a dealer's address. I only have one from Atlanta destined for Cuyahoga Falls Ohio but...the same Atlanta plant will show GA on some "CHARGED TO" entries and GEORGIA on others or ALA on one dealer but ALABAMA on another. The point being they'll vary on how states are listed but not cities. Baltimore may list MICH or MICHIGAN depending on who is in the CHARGE TO box.
 
#21 ·
So with everything said the build sheet is a fake, do you think the block stamping is correct and original? So the car could be a real ls5 with a fake build sheet and the wrong trans? The vin on the dash is just what was posted it matches the block stamping. how about the numbers and dates on the rearend?
 
#22 ·
Based on the zero (0) vs. the letter O on the engine date stamp, it looks like a restamp to me. I've seen differences in rear-end assembly dates as much as 6 months prior to the car's build date, especially at Arlington. From what I've seen of the photos, the car is, in my opinion, bogus and potential buyers should look elsewhere.
 
#23 ·
I think the block stamping is a fake as well. Examine it closely with what Dale claimed. I think you will conclude that he is correct.
So where is this car being sold at a dealer or by a private owner? What kind of history do you have on the car? Don’t need these type of people in the hobby. With all uncovered here it may be a total fraud, as not even an SS car?
 
#25 ·
So the car was bought buy a guy in local area who was sold the car as a numbers matching car with the build sheet, he was going to flip it, He bought the car from someone who bought it at a auction a few years ago, so who knows where this fake started from. I will let the seller and the guy looking at the car what we have found out, at this point its up to the seller to do the right thing. Thanks for all your help with this.
 
#26 ·
I'm not qualified to pass final judgement on just "how fake" this car is, but what point is there to going to the trouble to have a not only a fake build sheet, but a patina-ed one at that, other than to try to defraud someone? The existence of that build sheet is about all I need to know that SOMEBODY was trying to rip somebody off, and the car is most likely substantially "less" than what it is represented as. Being a 70, I would be shocked if it's even a SS at all. The current owner MAY be an innocent victim, But that is not the next buyer's problem. If somebody wants to buy it, they should pay strictly based on the condition of the car, not what it is or was purported to be.
 
#28 ·
I'm going to chime in concerning the build sheet... and I say all of this with the eye of a graphic designer and having seen and saved original build sheets posted here and elsewhere....

THAT BUILD SHEET IS FAKE FAKE FAKE!

I looks NOTHING like ANY OTHER true 1970 Chevelle build sheet I have ever seen. I would RUN AWAY from this car as fast as possible...

After further perusing the OP's photos... I'm looking at the rear axle stampings and can see that there are two sizes to the stampings. Another RED ALERT.

This is the kind of car that might be a nice pickup at $5000... a no stress, Malibu done for fun. I don't expect that is what's being asked for though. BE VERY VERY VERY WARY. Better yet, walk away.